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		<title>Thermocouple on High-Temperature IR Heating</title>
		<link>http://ir-heat-hot.com/en/tags/thermocouple/</link>
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			<lastBuildDate>Mon, 27 Jul 2026 10:59:36 +0800</lastBuildDate>
		
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				<title>Thermocouple for glass kiln</title>
				<link>http://ir-heat-hot.com/en/posts/reducing-glass-edge-chipping-via-infrared-preheating/</link>
				<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jul 2026 10:59:36 +0800</pubDate>
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				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://ir-heat-hot.com/images/b5cae4636e88247491fa9168385af439.png&#34; alt=&#34;Thermocouple for glass kiln&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;stop-the-chipping-why-we-preheat-glass-with-ir&#34;&gt;Stop the Chipping: Why We Preheat Glass with IR&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass is a nightmare when it&amp;rsquo;s cold. You hit a frozen sheet with a cutting wheel, and the &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;mechanical&lt;/a&gt; stress just creates these tiny, invisible micro-fractures. Then, the moment you go to break it? Boom. Chipping. Corner breakouts. A total waste of material.&#xA;That&amp;rsquo;s why we use infrared (IR) preheating. The goal is to change how the glass behaves before the blade even touches it.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;How it actually works&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Think of IR lamps like a targeted heat wave. They shoot short-wave radiation right into the glass, warming it up from the inside. This &lt;a href=&#34;https://henruite.com&#34;&gt;relaxes&lt;/a&gt; the internal tension and makes the molecular structure a bit more &amp;ldquo;forgiving.&amp;rdquo;&#xA;When the glass is warm, the &lt;a href=&#34;https://goldisgood.com&#34;&gt;score&lt;/a&gt; line comes out clean. The crack follows a straight path instead of jumping around. You get a crisp, satisfying snap instead of those jagged, ugly edges.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Setting up the lamps&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Usually, we &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.com&#34;&gt;mount&lt;/a&gt; these lamps in a bridge right in front of the cutting head. They have to be high-intensity because the glass is moving fast—you only have a few seconds to get the temperature right.&#xA;But here&amp;rsquo;s the trick: you have to find the sweet spot between wattage and line speed.&#xA;If the lamps are too weak, the glass stays cold and you&amp;rsquo;re right back to square one with the chipping. But if you crank them up too high? You risk warping the glass or causing thermal shock. We usually aim for a steady heat zone that covers the entire width of the sheet.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The trade-offs&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Now, this isn&amp;rsquo;t some magic wand. There&amp;rsquo;s a balancing act involved.&#xA;If the glass gets &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; hot, the score can go too deep or even &amp;ldquo;burn&amp;rdquo; into the surface. That makes the break much harder to control. You&amp;rsquo;ve got to tune the intensity based on how thick your glass is and how fast your line is running.&#xA;And a quick tip on the hardware: don&amp;rsquo;t skimp on the cooling fans. If those lamp housings overheat, they&amp;rsquo;ll fry your wiring, and then you&amp;rsquo;ve got a much bigger problem on your hands.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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